![]() you should see fluid comming out, and air slowly bubbling out. All you need to do is crack open the bleeder. I've always gravity bled my system, and have never had a problem. ![]() ![]() Bite the $19.99 bullet and you won't be sorry. I finally broke down and went to Harbor Frieght and bought one of their cheep power pump bleeders and 30 minutes later I am up and running. Nothing worked and I had never had any problems before. I spent litterally days waiting for gravity bleed, did the two-man bleed and the bottle method. I just went through a brake nightmare with my '68 when my line inside the car rusted through and I had to replace it. They all run along the drivers side outside the tunnel. You shouldn't have a line inside your tunnel. Oh and all the the lines are new, except for the one that runs through the tunnel. Posted: Mon 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: bleeding brakes? This is also a cause of a fading pedal when lightly pressed, such as when waiting at a stop sign. Under normal braking the cups do not get near the bottom of the bore. Dirt in the bottom of the master bore can cut the cups when you bleed. If your master was old it could easily crap out by pushing it to the floor during bleeding. Posted: Mon 3:35 pm Post subject: Re: bleeding brakes?Īre you getting a good stream of fluid from the other cylinders? If so you have a bad wheel cyl, loose or dirt on the flare of the line or bleeder.Īs the system most likely went empty on the rear, it will take a while to bleed. 15 minutes on a completely empty system to get perfect brakes.ĬFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation licenseĦ6 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2 New fluid went in clean and clear, came out tinted and dirty. I used this technique yesterday on my ghia. However it is not a good practice to reuse brake fluid as it contains contaminants. Nothing wrong with this method, works great and flushes the system at the same time. I'm not losing my hair, it's just retired and relocating further south. If you have disk brakes make sure you use the upper nipple on the calipers. Then I close that nipple, empty most of the fluid into the resevoir (or back into the bottle) and repeat for each wheel, on the order of left rear, right front, left front. I crack that bleeder nipple open, and pump the brakes until about a pint of fluid is in the jar, all the while ensuring the resevoir doesn't go empty. I fill the resevoir with fluid, attach a hose to the furtherest bleeder nipple (right rear) and put the other end of the hose in a quart jar partially filled with brake fluid. I connect everything up, all the way out to the wheels. I use an entirely different method of bleeding. Location: Home of the US Navy Atlantic Fleet, Norfolk, VA You should start with bleeding on the rear brakes first then work forward. Outback: '69 Ghia - '68,'69,'70,'72 Beetle - '84 Scirocco, GTI - Pair of '02 Golfs-īleed bleed bleed bleed till they build preasure and also like above adjust breaks, I did a mc on a range rover and it took me like 8to 10 trys b fore they build up preasure Probably not, you lost 'prime' on one side of the MC and haven't gotten the air out of it first.ĭaily driver: '69 Baja owned 42 yrs - Plan B: '81 Rabbit Diesel LS Deluxe - Plan C: '72 Ghia Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler Once you're done bleeding, make sure the brakes aren't adjusted TOO tight. I now am awaiting a garage to use a power bleeder and tell me what I did wrong.Īdditionally I removed the pedal assembly and used a screw driver to ensure I was depressing the master cylinder all the way in case an air bubble was at the end of the cylinder.Īdjust the brakes semi tight, then bleed again. I to have bled and bled including using a mity-vac(now worn out). I have replaced the master cylinder three times with new BAP parts, have replace all the wheel cylinders and replaced the rubber lines. I rebuilt the front struts and replaced the front shoes. I have a 1971 SB and am having a similar problem. I am wondering if the master cylinder has taken a crap on me, but I want to make sure it couldn't be anything else before I go through the trouble of putting in another master cylinder for no reason. The driver side rear brake just keeps sputtering air out, and very little fluid. I am bleeding the brakes using the 2 person method(one person opening and closing the bleeders, and one person pumping the pedal). I now have everything back in the car and my brakes will not build pressure. All of my brakes worked fine before the tear-down. So, I recently had to pull my engine and tranny.therefore I needed to disconnect my rear brakes. Posted: Mon 12:24 pm Post subject: bleeding brakes? Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top
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